Nashville

In many ways, Nashville is a town untouched by time. A place where you can still find children walking to school in the fresh-cut, green-scented breeze of a September day. An in-town landscape of sprawling lawns and elegant homes. Sidewalks, ice cream trucks and

continued below

the Vanderbilt University professor-cottages and bungalows of the 1920s. Old roses climbing the trellises of sleeping porches like pink children in whitewashed tree-forts. Not yet enough traffic or city noise here to drown out the birds.

And a river runs through it. The river that originally led French explorers to the same spring-fed and leafy banks that would eventually give birth to a trading post, then to the muddy first-streets of Nashville downtown proper – early in the 19th Century. Nashville, yes. Sole social, educational and cultural oasis of the South outside of Charleston until the 1920s – having played host to tours of major national theatre and opera companies as early as 1817; to a spectacular Nashville Centennial exhibition in 1890; and to half the Presidents of the United States by 1900.

"The Athens of the South," they called it. First city in the nation to introduce a Metro-sponsored system of public education, in the 1820s. Bigger than Atlanta right up until World War II. All built on the banks of that river – the once-mighty Cumberland River. Her waters neutered now by the flood-control efforts of the Tennessee Valley Authority – having misbehaved and overstepped her banks as far up Broadway as 5th Avenue more than once in the early 20th Century. And then again in the Great Flood of 2010.

The river on whose banks a new Nashville is being forged again.

The rusting scrap yards of forgotten industry that once covered the east side of the river for 50 years or more have moved aside to accommodate a gleaming NFL stadium – home of the Super Bowl-contending Tennessee Titans. And on the opposite side of the river, an arena housing the anomaly of one of the youngest hockey franchises in the NHL – the Nashville Predators – right here in the country-music bosom of the Confederate South.

The old-brick warehouses between 1st and 2nd Avenues downtown – once reserved for the cargo of river trade then abandoned in the late 1960s and 70s – have









continued at top